Owls Head Island

Teth's Cave

I claimed it when I was eight, and as far as I know it has no other name.

Good potential for a hard overhang problem along the front of the cave where the rock is less weathered. Pads and spotters are mandatory here due to the broken rock below. The rock on the roof farther into the cave is probably too loose for climbing and might be dangerous. Be carful.

The Gash (View from above Tipera's Cave looking South East)

This is a good warmup area, with some beginner and low intermediate problems. This area is a little hard on your hands, but a lot of fun.

Crystal Madness: (V2) Start on the two blades above the puddle, throw to the blade at top, and mantle with plenty of holds.
Kiss The Chainsaw: (V3) Start on the two blades above the puddle, reach for the toothy sloper, reach under the chainsaw to hook the eye of the needle, and top-out.
First Blood: (V0) Start in dish, move up blade using other features as needed, and top-out.
Money Shot: (V1) Start in dish, work up to pocket/ridge, and mantle to finish. Looks impressive to the uninitiated.
Gridiron Travers: (V1) Start far left, move right, and top-out where indicated. For a harder variation keep going.
Lower Water St.: (V0) Start on square blade and move right along crack/ledge to arret, or do in revers.

Tipera's Cave (View from the Gash)

1: Potential for bouldering or a short overhanging rope climb, but the rock is a bit loose.
2: Tipera's Cave Travers: (VB) A VERY fun VB problem. I have done it in walking shoes and with a clipboard in my mouth, but I enjoy it every time.
3: Potential for a short, but very interesting Trad climb.

Taliesin's Cave

You can't really make him out in the photo, but my little brother is sitting just behind the word project. This wall is probably about 15 feet high.

Momma Don't Break My Heart: (VB) Reportedly the first assent was by my 53 year old mother with no crash pad or spotter. I cringe just thinking about it.

Project: (V4 or higher) Start about 8 to 10 feet back in the cave, travers across the roof until you find daylight, then head skyward. Due to loose rock you might not want to start all the way at the back of the cave. While working this problem I had a hold literally explode while I was cranking on it. The resulting pebble size debris fell onto my brothers who were spotting me below. I was thus intending to call it Hard Rain, but I did not send it. There is considerably less loose rock on the problem now.

The Wall (Looking South East)

There is some neat stuff here, but use spotters to keep you from bouncing into the sea. The ledge below is rather narrow. Might I suggest two spotters holding a hamic?

The Wall (Looking North West)

In the Little Gorge

Two cool V3 problems which are a little easier on the hands.

Nylon 5: (V3) Slight overhang requiring a little technical foot work.

Progression to Cubism: (V3) The bottom is smooth, rounded wave polished granite. It tops out on blockish rock of the same type as the beginner wall at the Skapper.

North side of Moose Cove

We spent some time cleaning this area and removing a large chunk of loose rock, but did not get around to putting up any problems.

Check List

VB (Basic or Beginner)

Momma Don't Break My Heart - Taliesin's Cave
Tipera's Cave Travers - Tipera's Cave

V0

First Blood - The Gash
Lower Water St. - The Gash

V1

Money Shot - The Gash
Gridiron Travers - The Gash

V2

Crystal Madness - The Gash

V3

Kiss The Chainsaw - The Gash
Nylon 5 - Little Gorge
Progression to Cubism - Little Gorge

V4 or Higher

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Last updated: Dec 22, 2001