Porcupine Fortress:
The Porcupine Fortress area is small, but dense. It sports some of the biggest freestanding
boulders I have seen in Nova Scotia and the rock is heavily featured. In most cases the landings
are not bad, although there are some exceptions. The area offers potential for V0 to V13
problems, with everything in between. Since it is on Crown land, camping is an option. The one
drawback is the distance from Halifax (45 minutes). When heading back into the City after a long
day of bouldering I strongly suggest you stop at the Trellis Caf‚ in Hubbards. The food is
fantastic. It is fairly laid back, so if you need something, then walk into the kitchen and ask for it
(polity).
The approach from the main road is not bad. Drive to the Colemans Cove lake about a quarter
mile past North West Cove (10 miles south of Hubbards) . Park the car, either on the side of the
road or at the Colemans Cove Road. Backtrack towards North West Cove and cross the ditch at
the first opportunity. There is a pile of rocks in the water which you can hop to and the path
should be visible. (Be carful not to slip and get your feet wet.) The path is wide and well marked.
At the fork by the stream follow the arow and cross the stream. Head under the windfall and
straight up the hill. The path turns right near the top of the hill and you soon pass a hunting blind
and enter a cleared area. This is the only spot where I did not cut out the bushes, but just head
across the clearing toward the lake and remember you want to be at the bottom of the ridge which
starts to the right. You should find the path again when you cross the clearing. A few more steps
and you are there.
Problems
(*Interesting, **Intriguing, ***Cool!, ****Very Cool!, *****Classic!)
Battleship Boulder (#3)
"Tea Time In Transylvania" (VB or V0) on the right of the Stern Slab on Battleship Boulder. (I
think the name has something to do with the amount of blood lost while cleaning it.) Scrubbed
and sent by Ken Nicholson.
"Anchor Chain" (V4*****) on the Battleship Boulder. FA by Teth Cleveland on Nov 18, 2001.
Seconded by Sean Cassidy on Dec 8, 2001
"Stern Ladder" (V0*) Located on the Port (left) side of the Stern Slab on the Battleship Boulder.
Cleaned and sent by Barbara Stary on Nov 18, 2001.
"Confience" (V4?*****) FA by Dave (Last name unknown) who told me he was going to call the
problem "Would you mind terribly if I asked you to leave?", but according to Jonathan Graeme he
changed his mind and called it "Confience."
Five Unnamed Problems (V2-V4) Just right of The Anchor Chain is a section of wall with five
crisscrossing problems. Two or three have been done. Some are still projects. They are all four or
five star problems. I intend to make a sketch of this section of wall to sort out what is what.
Project (V0-V4) Travers up the Starboard side of the Battleship Boulder. This problem has been
partially cleaned, but has not been worked much yet.
The Nose (#4)
Don't Sneeze (V5****) from two finger jams in the horizontal crack on the back left of the
overhang to the rim and then around to match on the last big handhold. For a harder variation (V8
or higher), try to continue right, back to the wall. An extra crash pad and spotter would be nice
for this one since you are likely to fall on your head, although it is not high. We are talking true
roof action.
"Dracula's Big Adventure" (V2***) Travers from left to right along back wall of the overhang
under the Nose. Ken Nicholson found and named it. I enjoyed it.
Huge Boulder (#2)
The Quill (V0) (FA. Jonathan G., May 2002) (Taliesin had done this problem, but he might have
toped out early.) Travers up Huge Boulder from left. Landing is relatively flat, but the topout is at
about 16 feet (or when you decide you are high enough), so a couple of pads would be
recommended.
Project: (V10 - V13?) Go straight up the face of boulder 2 (the big one) to the highest point. I got
off the ground and managed to slap the wall at about the 8 foot mark. That is only half way up,
and I think it gets harder.
Bandit Boulder (#1)
Mask Man (V5-V7?) On boulder #1. (FA. Zig, May 2002.) On the South Side of Boulder #1.
Start on apposing holds and use one of two crimps to reach a nice hand hold. Unfortunately the
top-out looks sketchy.
The Quiver (V4) On boulder #1. (FA. Jonathan G., May) Starts sitting with your back to Huge
boulder. It goes up an obvious shallow left facing corner.
Project On the side facing the Nose, behind a fur tree. Partly cleaned.
Project Between boulders #1 and #6. Start on undercling on boulder #1 and through to
boulder #6. Top-out on boulder #1. Only use the lip and face of boulder #6.
???
"Tick Country" (V3) (FA Jonathan G.) To the right of "Don't
Sneeze?" I can't picture that. I might need a better description.
